California Day 3: J-Tree Cragging

I woke up before most everyone else (probably because I didn't have too much booze last night), and went for a trail run up a nearby peak. It wasn't very far, maybe only 5 miles and couldn't have gained much more than 1200', but it was steep enough to get my lungs a-scorchin', as well as a remind me that Ihadn't run in a few days. I didn't bring my running shoes, but my climbing approach shoes were mostly up to the task. The temperatures were very mild, and the air so dry compared to what I'm used to up in Seattle. It was quite pleasant, and I was happy to sneak in a workout before everyone stirred.

After I got back, we lounged around, ate breakfast, and decided what to climb that day. Kevin's friends were a club of climbers; some took off that morning after already having been there for a couple of days, but we joined the remainder for cragging around Sheep Pass. The pace was quite relaxed, and the group campground was pretty comfy - we had definitely had a hard time getting going (see picture). Eventually we got a move-on. We each led up a route, and then took laps on the others. With such willing belayers, I got in several laps on each before we called it good.

The climbing on the J-Tree slabs and domes is what I would call "no bullsh*t" compared to most modern crag areas. With a strong trad ethic guiding route development, bolts are sparsely placed. The first climb of the day I led was a fun 5.7, but it was about 20-25' from the last bolt to the anchors. I haven't been rock climbing tons over the winter, and had to focus to keep my head straight to avoid getting cheese-grated down the slab if I screwed up.

We through a toprope on a 5.10 route called "3 Bolts Closer to Divorce", and it hurt my feelings. The flakes were so thin, by the end of flailing on the thing my toes had about had it. The first one on it, I made all kinds of embarrassing noises in my effort; I didn't feel so bad when everyone else following suit did the same.

After a few laps with the toes and fingers a little spent, we called it good and Kevin's friends took off back to LA. Kevin and I squeezed in a couple of more pitches as sun set, including a moderate J-Tree classic called "Lazy Day". Kevin did an excellent lead up a 5.8 where he got suckered into a chimney and was forced to not use all of the easy holds on the outside face. I was very impressed with his focus and determination on the routes. For my part, all of the alpine climbing I've been doing (as opposed to leading hard routes at the crags) led me to climb these routes really quickly, which was a definite confidence booster.

We topped out on Lazy Day at sunset, rapped down, and got on the road back to LA. 3 days, nearly 5,000' of vert on Whitney, 20 pitches of rock, and 1200' vert on a trail run. It was a fun - packed trip, and Kevin and I spent the car ride discussing our ideas about Alaska climbing. I was very stoked, and Kevin seemed to be, as well. Thanks for the cool trip, Kevin!